How to Grow Amaranth Microgreens: Complete Growing Guide
By Bryan, Microgreens Farmer at Wind River GreensShare
Quick answer: Amaranth microgreens are ready to harvest in just 7-14 days and are one of the easiest, most rewarding microgreens you can grow at home. They thrive in slightly warmer conditions with a blackout period during germination, and reward your patience with stunning red, purple, and green leaves packed with vitamins A, C, and K, plus iron and calcium. Expect a mild, spinach-like flavor that looks just as impressive as it tastes.
Amaranth microgreens are among the most visually stunning and nutritionally dense microgreens you can grow at home. With their vibrant red, purple, and green leaves, these colorful greens add both beauty and powerful nutrition to your meals in just 7-14 days from seed to harvest.
Growing amaranth microgreens is surprisingly straightforward once you understand their specific needs. They prefer slightly warmer conditions than some microgreens and benefit from a blackout period during germination, but the payoff is incredible – you'll harvest tender, flavorful greens packed with vitamins A, C, and K, plus essential minerals like iron and calcium.
What Are Amaranth Microgreens?
Amaranth microgreens come from the seeds of amaranth plants, which have been cultivated for thousands of years as both grain and leafy vegetables. The microgreen version captures all the nutritional benefits of the mature plant in a tender, concentrated form.
These microgreens are known for their distinctive appearance – many varieties display stunning red or purple stems with green leaves that often have colorful veining. The flavor is mild and slightly earthy, similar to spinach but with a more delicate texture.
At Wind River Greens, we've found amaranth microgreens to be one of our most popular specialty varieties because they're as beautiful as they are nutritious. They make excellent garnishes for upscale dishes and add incredible color to salads and smoothie bowls.
Choosing Your Amaranth Seeds
Success with amaranth microgreens starts with selecting high-quality seeds specifically labeled for microgreen production. Avoid seeds intended for sprouting or garden planting, as these may be treated with chemicals unsuitable for microgreens.
Look for varieties like Red Garnet, which produces beautiful deep red leaves, or Tricolor, which offers a mix of green, red, and yellow foliage. These varieties not only look spectacular but also tend to have the best flavor profiles for culinary use.
Purchase your seeds from reputable microgreen suppliers who test for germination rates and purity. Fresh seeds should have germination rates of 85% or higher – anything lower will result in patchy, uneven growth.
Essential Supplies for Growing Amaranth Microgreens
Before you begin, gather these essential supplies. Having everything ready will make the growing process much smoother and increase your chances of success.
You'll need shallow growing trays with drainage holes – 10x20 inch standard nursery trays work perfectly. Avoid trays deeper than 2 inches, as amaranth microgreens have relatively shallow root systems and excess soil depth can lead to moisture problems.
For growing medium, choose a fine-textured, soilless mix designed for seed starting. Coconut coir, peat-based mixes, or specialized microgreen growing mats all work well. Avoid regular potting soil, which is too coarse and retains too much moisture.
You'll also need a spray bottle for misting, weights for pressing seeds during germination (books or another tray work fine), and a grow light if you don't have access to bright, indirect natural light.
Step 1: Preparing Your Growing Setup
Start by thoroughly cleaning your growing trays with a diluted bleach solution (1 tablespoon bleach per gallon of water). This prevents mold and bacterial issues that can ruin your crop before it even gets started.
Fill your tray with about 1 inch of growing medium, spreading it evenly across the surface. The medium should be moist but not waterlogged – it should feel like a wrung-out sponge when you squeeze a handful.
Level the surface gently with your hand or a small tool. A smooth, even surface ensures uniform seed distribution and consistent germination across the entire tray.
Step 2: Sowing Amaranth Seeds
Amaranth seeds are tiny, so handle them carefully to avoid waste. Measure out about 1-2 tablespoons of seeds for a 10x20 inch tray – this provides good coverage without overcrowding.
Sprinkle the seeds evenly across the moistened growing medium. Don't worry about perfect spacing, but try to avoid clumping seeds in one area. Gently press the seeds into the medium with your hand or a clean piece of cardboard.
Unlike some microgreens, amaranth seeds don't need to be covered with additional growing medium. However, they do benefit from being pressed firmly into the surface to ensure good seed-to-soil contact for optimal germination.
Step 3: The Blackout Period
Amaranth microgreens require a blackout period during the first 3-4 days of growth. This darkness encourages the seeds to germinate and develop strong stems before the leaves begin photosynthesis.
Cover your seeded tray with another tray or a piece of cardboard, creating complete darkness. Place a light weight on top – a few books or a water-filled container works well. This weight helps the seeds maintain contact with the growing medium.
Keep the covered tray in a warm location, ideally between 70-75°F. A heating mat can help maintain consistent temperature if your growing area tends to be cool.
Step 4: Monitoring Germination
Check your seeds daily during the blackout period by carefully lifting the cover. You should see signs of germination within 2-3 days – tiny white roots emerging from the seeds and small stems beginning to push upward.
Mist the surface lightly if the growing medium appears to be drying out, but be careful not to oversaturate. Amaranth seeds can rot if kept too wet during germination.
Once the stems reach about 1 inch tall and begin to push against the weight, it's time to remove the cover and introduce light. This typically happens around day 3-4.
Step 5: Introducing Light
Remove the cover and weights when your amaranth seedlings are about 1 inch tall with pale yellow-green leaves (called cotyledons). Place the tray under grow lights or in a location with bright, indirect sunlight.
If using artificial lights, position them 12-18 inches above the microgreens and provide 12-16 hours of light daily. LED grow lights work excellently and don't generate excess heat that could stress the young plants.
Within 24-48 hours of light exposure, you should notice the leaves beginning to develop their characteristic colors. Red varieties will start showing pink or red tints, while green varieties will deepen in color.
Step 6: Daily Care and Watering
Water your amaranth microgreens by bottom watering whenever possible. Place the growing tray in a shallow pan of water and allow the growing medium to absorb moisture from below. This prevents disturbing the delicate stems and reduces the risk of fungal problems.
If you must water from above, use a fine mist spray and water gently around the edges of the tray rather than directly onto the plants. Water early in the day so excess moisture can evaporate before evening.
Monitor the growing medium daily – it should remain consistently moist but never waterlogged. Amaranth microgreens are somewhat drought-tolerant once established, but consistent moisture produces the best growth and flavor.
Harvesting Your Amaranth Microgreens
Amaranth microgreens are typically ready to harvest 10-14 days from sowing, depending on growing conditions and your preferred size. They're ready when the first true leaves appear above the cotyledons and the plants reach 2-3 inches in height.
Harvest in the morning when the plants are fully hydrated and crisp. Use clean scissors or a sharp knife to cut the stems about 1/2 inch above the growing medium. Cut only what you plan to use immediately for the best flavor and texture.
Rinse the harvested microgreens gently in cool water and pat dry with paper towels or use a salad spinner. Store them in the refrigerator in a breathable container, where they'll stay fresh for 5-7 days.
Common Problems and Solutions
Mold is the most common issue with amaranth microgreens, usually caused by overwatering or poor air circulation. If you notice fuzzy white or gray growth, increase air circulation and reduce watering frequency. Remove any affected areas immediately to prevent spread.
Poor germination often results from old seeds, incorrect temperature, or inconsistent moisture. Always use fresh, high-quality seeds and maintain temperatures between 70-75°F during germination.
Leggy, pale growth indicates insufficient light. Move your trays closer to the light source or increase the daily light exposure. Amaranth microgreens need bright light to develop their characteristic colors and compact growth.
Nutritional Benefits
Amaranth microgreens are nutritional powerhouses, containing high levels of vitamins A, C, and K. They're also rich in folate, iron, and calcium, making them an excellent addition to any healthy diet.
The red varieties contain anthocyanins, the same antioxidants found in berries and red wine. These compounds have anti-inflammatory properties and may help protect against cardiovascular disease and certain cancers.
Because microgreens are harvested at peak nutritional density, amaranth microgreens can contain 4-40 times more nutrients than their mature counterparts, depending on the specific nutrient measured.
Culinary Uses
Amaranth microgreens have a mild, slightly earthy flavor that works well in both raw and cooked applications. Their stunning colors make them perfect for garnishing soups, salads, and main dishes.
Try adding them to smoothie bowls for a pop of color and nutrition, or use them as a bed for grilled proteins. They're also delicious in wraps and sandwiches, where their tender texture and mild flavor won't overpower other ingredients.
For a simple but elegant preparation, toss amaranth microgreens with a light vinaigrette and serve as a side salad. The colorful leaves make even the simplest preparations look restaurant-quality.
Growing amaranth microgreens at home is a rewarding way to add both nutrition and visual appeal to your meals. With their relatively simple growing requirements and stunning appearance, they're perfect for beginners looking to expand beyond basic varieties like sunflower or pea shoots. Once you master the basics of amaranth cultivation, you'll have access to these beautiful, nutritious greens year-round, and you might find yourself inspired to experiment with other colorful microgreen varieties.
Related from Wind River Greens
- Microgreens 101: Everything You Need to Know
- Explore All Microgreen Varieties (Plant Database)
- Recipe: Sunflower Microgreen Salad
- Recipe: Microgreen Pesto
What Most Amaranth Microgreen Guides Get Wrong
Most guides treat amaranth like any other microgreen, and that's where growers run into trouble. Amaranth has a few quirks that aren't obvious until you've lost a tray or two.
The biggest misconception is that more water equals better germination. Amaranth seeds are tiny — much smaller than sunflower or pea seeds — and they sit right at the soil surface. Overwatering during germination doesn't just risk mold; it can actually displace the seeds or cause them to clump together before they've had a chance to anchor. Bottom watering is always the right call here, even during the first 24-48 hours.
Another common mistake is rushing the blackout phase. Many growers lift the blackout dome too early because the seeds look like they're sprouting. Amaranth benefits from a full 4-5 days under the blackout cover, not just 2-3. Pulling it too soon exposes seedlings before the root structure is established, and you'll end up with leggy, pale growth that never fully recovers.
Finally, there's the temperature issue. Guides that say amaranth "prefers warmth" rarely give you a number. Aim for 70-75°F (21-24°C) during germination. Below 65°F, germination slows noticeably and you'll see patchy results. If your growing space runs cold, a seedling heat mat set to low makes a real difference.
Troubleshooting Common Amaranth Problems
Even with good technique, things go sideways sometimes. Here's how to read what your tray is telling you.
Damping Off and Mold at the Soil Line
Damping off — where seedlings collapse at the base — usually means one of two things: too much surface moisture or too little airflow. Once you move amaranth into the light phase, make sure there's some air circulation in your grow space. A small fan on low, positioned to gently move air across (not directly at) the trays, helps significantly. If you see fuzzy white mold on the soil surface, that's a different issue — it typically means your seed density was too high. Amaranth seeds should be spread in a single, even layer without visible piling. About 1 oz of seed per 10x20 tray is a reasonable starting point.
Pale or Yellow Leaves After the Blackout Phase
Some yellowing right after you remove the blackout cover is normal — it's just the seedlings adjusting to light. If the leaves stay pale or yellowish after 24 hours of light exposure, the problem is usually insufficient light intensity. Amaranth needs at least 12-16 hours of light per day, and grow lights should be positioned 2-4 inches above the canopy. Natural window light alone rarely provides enough intensity for good color development, which is especially noticeable with red-pigmented varieties like Red Garnet.
Slow or Uneven Germination
If half your tray sprouts in 3 days and the other half looks dormant, check two things: seed freshness and seed contact with the growing medium. Amaranth seeds need good soil contact to germinate reliably. After sowing, press the seeds gently but firmly into the surface using a second tray or a flat board. You're not burying them — just ensuring contact. Seeds sitting loosely on top of dry medium will lag behind.
Tradeoffs Worth Knowing Before You Start
Amaranth microgreens are genuinely rewarding to grow, but they're not the right fit for every situation. Being clear-eyed about the tradeoffs saves frustration.
Yield vs. visual impact: Amaranth produces a lower yield by weight compared to denser crops like sunflower or peas. A 10x20 tray will typically give you around 3-5 oz of finished greens, sometimes less. If you're growing primarily for volume, radish or broccoli microgreens are more efficient. Amaranth earns its tray space through color and nutritional density, not bulk.
Harvest timing is less forgiving than some crops. Amaranth hits its flavor peak at the cotyledon stage, just as the seed leaves are fully open. If you wait for the first true leaves to develop, the texture gets slightly tougher and the flavor can turn more bitter. Watch the tray closely from day 7 onward and harvest promptly when the cotyledons are open and upright.
Shelf life after harvest is shorter than hardier microgreens. Harvested amaranth will keep in the refrigerator for about 5-7 days if stored dry in a container lined with a paper towel. Moisture is the enemy here — don't rinse until right before use. Compare this to sunflower microgreens, which can hold for 10+ days under the same conditions.
None of these are reasons to avoid growing amaranth. They're just worth knowing so you can plan your grow schedule and set realistic expectations for your first few trays.