How to Grow Microgreens at Home: The Complete Beginner's Guide

How to Grow Microgreens at Home: The Complete Beginner's Guide

How to Grow Microgreens at Home: The Complete Beginner's Guide

Learning how to grow microgreens at home is one of the most rewarding things you can do in your kitchen — and one of the easiest. No backyard required. No green thumb necessary. If you have a windowsill, a few basic supplies, and about 10 minutes a day, you can go from dry seeds to fresh, nutrient-packed greens in 7 to 14 days. Here at Wind River Greens, we have grown thousands of trays on our farm in Milton, Georgia, and we have made every mistake there is to make along the way. This guide is everything we wish someone had told us when we started — a complete, step-by-step walkthrough covering supplies, technique, troubleshooting, and the best varieties for beginners. Whether you want to grow a single tray on your counter or eventually scale up to a full rack system, this is the place to start.

What Are Microgreens?

Microgreens are young vegetable and herb plants harvested just after the first set of true leaves (or cotyledons) have developed — typically 7 to 21 days after planting, depending on the variety. They are bigger than sprouts but much smaller than baby greens, usually standing 1 to 3 inches tall at harvest.

The key difference between microgreens and sprouts is how they are grown. Sprouts are germinated in water and eaten whole — seed, root, and all. Microgreens are grown in soil or a growing medium, exposed to light, and harvested by cutting the stem above the soil line. The result is a cleaner, crunchier, more flavorful green with significantly lower food safety risk.

What makes microgreens special is their nutritional density. Research from the University of Maryland has shown that microgreens can contain 4 to 40 times the concentration of vitamins and antioxidants found in their mature counterparts. That means a small handful of broccoli microgreens can deliver more sulforaphane than a full head of mature broccoli. You are getting the plant at its most nutrient-dense stage of life.

Why Grow Microgreens at Home?

There are plenty of good reasons to start growing your own microgreens, but here are the ones that matter most:

  • Speed — Most varieties are ready to harvest in 7 to 14 days. No other crop gives you that kind of turnaround.
  • Space — A standard 10x20-inch tray fits on a countertop, shelf, or windowsill. You do not need a garden.
  • Cost — A single tray of microgreens costs roughly $2 to $4 in supplies and produces the equivalent of several store-bought clamshells that might run $5 to $8 each.
  • Freshness — Microgreens from a grocery store may already be several days old by the time you buy them. Growing your own means cutting them minutes before eating.
  • Year-round growing — Because they are grown indoors, you can produce microgreens 365 days a year regardless of climate or season.
  • Nutrition — The nutrient density of microgreens makes them one of the most efficient foods you can grow at home.

What You Need: The Complete Supplies Checklist

Before you grow your first tray, gather the following supplies. You do not need anything fancy — simple and affordable is the way to start.

Essential Supplies

  • Growing trays (10x20 inch, no holes) — You need two trays: one with drainage holes to hold the soil and seeds, and one solid tray underneath to catch water. Standard 1020 nursery trays work perfectly and cost just a couple of dollars each. [AFFILIATE LINK]
  • Growing medium — Organic potting soil or coconut coir both work well. Avoid soil with slow-release fertilizer pellets — microgreens do not need it and the chemicals can affect flavor. We use a fine organic seed-starting mix on our farm. [AFFILIATE LINK]
  • Seeds — Buy seeds labeled specifically for microgreen growing. They are sold in larger quantities and at better prices than garden seed packets. Avoid treated or coated seeds. [AFFILIATE LINK]
  • Spray bottle — For misting during the germination and blackout phases.
  • A weight or cover tray — A second tray placed on top (with a small weight like a book or a brick) creates the darkness and gentle pressure that encourages strong, even germination.
  • Light source — A sunny south-facing window can work for some varieties, but a simple LED grow light will give you dramatically more consistent results. A basic shop-style LED panel is all you need. [AFFILIATE LINK]
  • Sharp scissors or a knife — For harvesting at the soil line.

Nice to Have (But Not Required)

  • Wire shelving rack — If you plan to grow more than one or two trays, a basic 4-tier wire rack with grow lights mounted on each shelf lets you scale up vertically.
  • Small kitchen scale — Helpful for measuring seed density. Consistent seeding means consistent results.
  • Hydrogen peroxide (food-grade, 3%) — A diluted spray can help prevent mold during germination. More on that in the troubleshooting section.
  • pH meter or strips — Not essential for beginners, but if you are having persistent problems, checking your water pH can help. Microgreens prefer water in the 5.5 to 6.5 range.

Best Microgreens Varieties for Beginners

Not all microgreens are equally easy to grow. Some varieties are nearly foolproof, while others require more precise conditions or longer grow times. If you are just getting started, begin with one of these reliable options and expand from there.

Radish Microgreens

The single best variety for your very first tray. Radish microgreens germinate fast (often within 24 hours), grow quickly (ready in 6 to 8 days), and are extremely forgiving. They have a mild peppery flavor that works well in salads, sandwiches, and as a garnish. If you can only pick one variety to start with, pick this one.

Sunflower Microgreens

The most popular variety among microgreen growers for good reason. Sunflower microgreens have thick, crunchy stems, a nutty flavor, and are packed with protein, vitamin E, and zinc. They require a soak before planting and take a bit longer (10 to 14 days), but the results are worth the wait. We have a detailed guide to sunflower microgreens if you want to go deeper.

Pea Shoots

Sweet, tender, and surprisingly substantial, pea shoot microgreens are another beginner-friendly option. They produce beautiful tendrils and have a fresh, sweet flavor that kids especially love. Pea seeds should be soaked for 8 to 12 hours before planting.

Broccoli Microgreens

If nutrition is your primary motivation, broccoli microgreens are hard to beat. They are one of the richest known sources of sulforaphane, a compound studied extensively for its anti-inflammatory and cancer-fighting properties. They have a mild, slightly earthy flavor and are ready to harvest in about 8 to 12 days.

Wheatgrass

Technically a microgreen (though often grown specifically for juicing), wheatgrass is extremely easy to grow and nearly impossible to fail. It is ready in about 7 to 10 days and is a great confidence builder for absolute beginners, even if you plan to move on to other varieties.

Other Good Beginner Varieties

Once you have a few successful trays under your belt, try these: kale, mustard, arugula, basil, cilantro, and cabbage. Each has its own flavor profile, grow time, and quirks. We will be publishing individual variety guides covering the specifics of each one — check back on our guides page regularly.

How to Grow Microgreens: Step-by-Step

Here is the process we use on our farm, simplified for home growing. Once you have done it once, the whole routine takes about 5 minutes a day.

Step 1: Prepare Your Seeds

Some seeds benefit from a pre-soak before planting. This softens the seed coat and speeds up germination. The general rule:

  • Soak for 8 to 12 hours: Sunflower, pea, wheatgrass, beet, chard, cilantro
  • No soak needed: Radish, broccoli, kale, arugula, mustard, cabbage, basil

To soak, place your seeds in a jar or bowl with room-temperature water. Use about 3 times as much water as seeds — they will absorb a lot. After soaking, drain and rinse the seeds before planting.

Step 2: Prepare Your Tray

Fill your growing tray (the one with holes) with about 1 to 1.5 inches of moistened growing medium. You want the soil damp but not waterlogged — think of a wrung-out sponge. Level the surface gently with your hand or a piece of cardboard. Do not pack it down hard. Roots need to be able to penetrate the soil easily.

Step 3: Sow Your Seeds

Spread your seeds evenly across the entire surface of the soil. Microgreen trays are seeded much more densely than a garden — you want seeds close together but ideally not piled on top of each other. This is where a kitchen scale helps: for most small-seeded varieties (radish, broccoli, kale), aim for about 1 to 1.5 ounces per 10x20 tray. For larger seeds like sunflower and pea, use 3 to 4 ounces.

After spreading, mist the seeds generously with your spray bottle. Do not bury small seeds under soil — just press them gently into the surface. Larger seeds like sunflower and pea can handle a light dusting of soil on top, but it is not strictly necessary.

Step 4: The Blackout Period

This step is the secret to growing strong, healthy microgreens. Place a second tray (or a lid, damp newspaper, or even a towel) directly on top of your seeds. Then set a small weight on top — a book, a jar of water, or a brick wrapped in a plastic bag. This does two important things:

  • Blocks light — Darkness forces the seedlings to stretch upward, producing longer, more harvestable stems.
  • Provides pressure — The gentle weight encourages the roots to push down into the soil firmly and helps the seed hulls shed from the cotyledons.

Keep your tray in blackout for 3 to 5 days, depending on the variety. Check once daily to mist if the surface looks dry. You should see pale yellow or white seedlings pushing up against the cover. This is exactly what you want.

Step 5: Uncover and Introduce Light

Once your seedlings are about 1 to 2 inches tall and pushing firmly against the cover, it is time to remove the blackout tray and expose them to light. The seedlings will look pale yellow — that is completely normal. Within 24 to 48 hours of light exposure, they will green up rapidly through photosynthesis.

If you are using a grow light, position it 6 to 12 inches above the tray and run it for 12 to 16 hours per day. If using a window, choose the brightest south-facing window you have and rotate the tray daily so the greens do not all lean in one direction.

Step 6: Watering

Once the blackout period is over and your greens are growing under light, switch from misting to bottom watering. Here is how:

  1. Place your growing tray (with holes) inside your solid bottom tray.
  2. Pour water into the bottom tray — enough to cover the bottom with about a quarter inch of water.
  3. Let the growing medium absorb the water upward through the drainage holes for 10 to 15 minutes.
  4. Drain any excess water that was not absorbed.

Bottom watering is important because it keeps the stems and leaves dry, which dramatically reduces the risk of mold. Water once or twice a day depending on how quickly your trays dry out. The soil should stay consistently moist but never soggy.

Step 7: Harvest

Your microgreens are ready to harvest when the cotyledons (first leaves) are fully open and green. For most varieties, this is 7 to 14 days after planting. Use sharp scissors or a clean knife to cut the stems just above the soil line.

Harvest what you need, when you need it. Microgreens are at their peak nutrition and flavor the moment they are cut. If you harvest the entire tray at once, store the cut greens in an airtight container lined with a dry paper towel in the refrigerator. They will stay fresh for 5 to 7 days when stored properly.

Pro tip: Harvest in the morning if possible. Microgreens are most hydrated and crisp in the morning, and they tend to wilt slightly in the afternoon heat — even indoors.

Growing Timeline by Variety

Here is a quick reference for how long common varieties take from seed to harvest:

Variety Soak? Blackout Days Days to Harvest Difficulty
Radish No 3-4 6-8 Very Easy
Broccoli No 3-4 8-12 Easy
Sunflower Yes (8-12 hrs) 3-5 10-14 Easy
Pea Shoots Yes (8-12 hrs) 3-4 10-14 Easy
Wheatgrass Yes (8-12 hrs) 3-4 7-10 Very Easy
Kale No 3-4 8-12 Easy
Mustard No 3-4 8-12 Easy
Arugula No 3-4 8-10 Easy
Basil No 4-5 12-18 Moderate
Cilantro Yes (8-12 hrs) 4-5 14-21 Moderate
Beet Yes (8-12 hrs) 4-5 12-18 Moderate

Light Requirements for Growing Microgreens

Light is one of the most important factors in growing high-quality microgreens. Without enough light, you will end up with leggy, pale, weak greens that lack flavor and nutrition.

Natural light: A bright south-facing window can work for small-scale growing, but it has limitations. In winter, shorter days and lower sun angles may not provide enough intensity. You will also need to rotate trays daily to prevent the greens from leaning toward the light.

Grow lights (recommended): Even a basic LED shop light produces better and more consistent results than a window. You do not need expensive horticultural lights — a standard 2-foot or 4-foot LED light bar in the 5000K to 6500K color temperature range is ideal. [AFFILIATE LINK] Position the light 6 to 12 inches above your trays and run it on a timer for 12 to 16 hours per day.

If you plan to grow on a wire rack with multiple shelves, mount one light per shelf. This gives each tray its own consistent, direct light source — the same setup professional growers like us use, just on a smaller scale.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even experienced growers run into issues from time to time. Here are the most common problems and how to fix them.

Mold on Your Tray

This is the number-one problem beginners encounter, and it is almost always caused by one of three things: too much moisture, not enough airflow, or seeds that are too densely packed. Here is how to address it:

  • Make sure you are bottom watering (not misting from above) once the blackout period is over.
  • Do not overwater — the soil should be moist, not waterlogged.
  • Ensure good airflow around your trays. A small fan on low speed pointed near (not directly at) your trays makes a big difference.
  • Try reducing your seeding density slightly.
  • Spray seeds with a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution (1 tablespoon of 3% food-grade hydrogen peroxide per cup of water) before planting.
  • Note: The white fuzzy growth at the base of your stems may actually be root hairs, not mold. Root hairs are fine and wispy, appear only on the roots, and disappear when misted with water. True mold is cobweb-like, appears on the soil surface and seed hulls, and may have a musty smell.

Leggy, Tall, Thin Growth

If your microgreens are growing very tall but have thin, weak stems, they are not getting enough light. This is called "etiolation" — the plant is stretching toward any available light source. The fix is simple: use a stronger or closer light source. Move your grow light to within 6 inches of the tray tops, or switch from a window to a dedicated grow light.

Slow or Uneven Germination

Several things can cause slow or patchy germination:

  • Old seeds — Seeds lose viability over time. Buy from a reputable supplier and check the packed or tested date.
  • Temperature — Most microgreen seeds germinate best between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. If your room is cold, germination will slow down significantly. A seedling heat mat can help in cooler environments.
  • Insufficient moisture — Seeds need consistent moisture to germinate. If the surface dries out during the blackout period, germination stalls.
  • Skipped the soak — Large seeds like sunflower, pea, and beet need to be soaked before planting. Skipping this step can result in very slow or uneven germination.

Yellowing Leaves

If your microgreens stay yellow after being exposed to light, they usually just need more time. Most greens will transition from yellow to vibrant green within 24 to 48 hours of light exposure. If they are still yellow after two full days under light, the light intensity may not be strong enough — move the light closer or increase the duration.

Yellowing that appears after the greens have already turned green is different. This typically indicates overwatering, poor drainage, or root issues. Check that your tray is draining properly and reduce watering frequency.

Seeds Not Shedding Their Hulls

Sunflower microgreens are especially prone to this. If the seed hulls are stuck on the cotyledons after uncovering, try this: mist the tray heavily and place the blackout cover back on for 12 to 24 more hours. The moisture and pressure usually help. You can also gently brush hulls off by hand. Using a weight during the blackout period helps prevent this problem in the first place.

Unpleasant Smell

A sour or unpleasant smell from your tray is a sign of anaerobic conditions — usually too much water and not enough air reaching the root zone. Drain any standing water, improve ventilation, and reduce watering. If the smell persists and the roots look brown or slimy, it is best to compost that tray and start fresh.

Storage and Shelf Life

Harvested microgreens are best eaten immediately, but they will keep for 5 to 7 days when stored properly. Here are the keys to maximizing their shelf life:

  • Do not wash them before storing — moisture accelerates decay. Wash just before eating.
  • Place cut greens in an airtight container with a dry paper towel on the bottom to absorb excess moisture.
  • Store in the refrigerator at 35 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • If you prefer, you can also leave them uncut in the tray and harvest as needed. Living microgreens in their tray will stay fresh longer than cut greens.

For a deep dive on storage techniques, see our full guide on how to store microgreens.

Tips From Our Growing Room

After growing microgreens professionally for years, here are a few things we have learned that most beginner guides leave out:

  • Grow multiple trays staggered by a few days. This way you always have fresh greens ready to harvest instead of waiting for a single tray to finish.
  • Keep a grow journal. Track which varieties you planted, seed density, blackout days, harvest date, and results. You will dial in your process much faster with data than with memory.
  • Your water matters. If your tap water is heavily chlorinated, let it sit out for 24 hours before using or use filtered water. Some growers notice better germination and growth with clean water.
  • Temperature consistency matters more than exact temperature. A steady 68 to 72 degrees is better than a room that swings between 60 and 80 throughout the day.
  • Reuse your soil. After harvesting, you can compost the root mat and spent soil. Some growers break up the root mat and reuse the soil for a second round, though we prefer starting fresh for the most consistent results.
  • Do not overcomplicate it. Microgreens have been grown on kitchen counters with nothing more than a tray, soil, seeds, and a window. Start simple, learn from your results, and upgrade your setup only when you have a specific reason to.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to grow microgreens?

Most varieties are ready to harvest in 7 to 14 days from planting. Fast growers like radish can be ready in as little as 6 days. Slower varieties like basil and cilantro can take 14 to 21 days. See the growing timeline table above for variety-specific timing.

Can I grow microgreens without soil?

Yes. Many growers use hydroponic growing mats made from coconut coir, hemp, or jute as a soil-free alternative. These mats are cleaner and easier to dispose of, but they provide no nutrients — so the greens rely entirely on what is stored in the seed. For most fast-growing varieties, this works fine. Soil tends to produce slightly more robust growth, especially for larger-seeded varieties like sunflower and pea.

Are microgreens safe to eat?

Absolutely. Microgreens are very safe when grown properly. Because they are grown in soil (not water, like sprouts) and harvested above the soil line, they carry a much lower food safety risk than sprouts. Use clean trays, fresh growing medium, and untreated seeds, and wash your greens before eating.

Do microgreens regrow after cutting?

In most cases, no. Microgreens are typically a one-harvest crop. When you cut them at the stem, the plant does not have enough energy reserves to regrow. The exception is pea shoots — they can sometimes produce a second (smaller) harvest if cut above the lowest leaf node. For all other varieties, compost the tray and start a fresh one.

How much do microgreens cost to grow at home?

The startup cost for a basic setup — two trays, a bag of soil, seeds, and a spray bottle — is typically $15 to $25. Adding a grow light brings the total to $40 to $60. After that, each tray costs roughly $2 to $4 in soil and seeds, producing an amount of greens that would cost $10 to $20 at a farmers market or grocery store. It is one of the most cost-effective ways to grow food at home.

What is the best room temperature for growing microgreens?

Most microgreen varieties grow best between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. This is typical room temperature in most homes, which is one reason microgreens are so well-suited to indoor growing. Avoid growing in rooms that get very hot (above 80 degrees) or very cold (below 60 degrees), as both extremes can cause poor germination, slow growth, or mold problems.

Can I use regular garden seeds for microgreens?

You can, as long as they are untreated and not coated with fungicides or pesticides. However, seeds sold specifically for microgreen growing are typically sold in larger quantities at better per-ounce prices, and they are tested for germination rates. If you are buying from a garden center, check the label carefully — any seed marked as treated or coated should be avoided.

How do I know when microgreens are ready to harvest?

The general rule is to harvest when the cotyledons (the first set of leaves) are fully open, the stems have straightened, and the greens have turned a vibrant green color. For most varieties, this is when the plants are 1 to 3 inches tall. Some growers wait for the first true leaves to appear for a slightly more developed flavor, but harvesting at the cotyledon stage is standard and gives you the best combination of tenderness, nutrition, and flavor.

Ready to Keep Learning?

This guide covers everything you need to grow your first tray of microgreens at home. But there is so much more to explore — individual variety guides with specific growing techniques, in-depth nutrition breakdowns, recipe ideas, and advanced tips for scaling your growing setup.

Start here:

We publish new guides regularly, so bookmark this page and check back often. And if you have a question we did not cover here, reach out — we love talking about this stuff.

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